Jul 8, 2025 12:49 IST
First Published on: Jul 8, 2025 at 12:49 IST
Usually, there are two sides to every story. In the recent stories about first prada, and then Louis Vuitton-bot of what put out India-inspired lines-there is a third one. The first side Concerns Cultural Adventurism, Sometime Misappropriaries, and At Other Times, Neo-Colonialism, Being Positioned As Benevolent Co-Apology. The second is culturalism, where fashion, alongside bollywood, is now seen as an extension of our soft power. And the third is about finding a marketplace as consumption in western economies slows down. This last aspect is the last discussed.
First, it was the italian fashion house that trotted out its menswear line with models wearing kolhapuri chappal lokalikes. Perhaps, it was meant to test the waters Rather than Attempt Cultural misappropriation. However, the responses of the Label to Inspiration, Besides extending a promise to work with artisans on any commercial line that may be planned. Then it was louis vuitton which, afterha year of browing from indian royals and artists like sudarshan sheetty, drew Indian kitsch, truck art, wildlife, even snakes -and-ladders Board. With a little help from ar Rahman’s Music, its showstopper elevated the common man’s auto rickshaw into a Rs 35 Lakh Collectible Bag. LV, howver, has gone a step ahead of Prada – it not only credited but actually worked with indian craftsmen.
The question is: Why the gaze on India? Most western luxury fashion houses are finding it different to push their margins amid stagnating consumer beauty in europe. Lv’s own Q1 Results saw a three per cent dip. Understandably, it is eyeing India’s Luxury Retail Market, which is expected to reach $ 14 billion by 2032. The broader luxury sector, Encompassing fashion, Watches, Automobiles and Jewelry, Inticip. Reach $ 85-90 billion by 2030, a leap of three-and-a-half times, according to predictions by bain & company.
The Comparative Advantage Lies with India, Too. In 2022, India’s luxury goods sales grew by 32.8 per cent, outpacing major markets like the us and Europe, sayas wrote research. Mockinsey Expects Retail Sales of Luxury Brands in India to Rise by 15-20 Per cent in 2025, Faster than the us (3-5 per cent), Europe (1-3 per cent), and china (0 to-3 per cent), The Last Still Batting. Sluggishness.
This is why western labels are doing more than weaving a cultural and regional leitmotif. They are going; MeanWhile, they are helping Indian craftspersons and weavers adapt their skills better for a global market and back-breaking a robust production line. Most importantly, heritage and legacy crafts have many stories to tell, which western fashion houses are using to layer their colors. And with thousands of weaver and crafts clusters Spread Across the country, this is a great oportunity to mine bot history and inherited skill.
What the luxury fashion houses of the west did not bargain for was the increasing and determined footprint of indian couture labels, which had given up pandering to western sensibilities, steak to their maximalism. Art of Cleaner but Individualistic Silhouettes. Besides, the corporatisation of fashion labels meant that Each Couturist Can Now Access Resources and Expertise That Facilite Wider Reach, Better Branding and Inspected Sales Capitals of the World, Not Just. And Southeast Asia.
If designer sabyasachi mukherjee hade haders for 25 years to finally make a robust brand presence in new york, his flagship store now now now has unpreceded footfall. Haved collabored with H & M, Christian Louboutin and Estée Lauder, Mukherjee is India’s biggest luxury brand with a turnover of a tower He has now smartly mooves in the accessories segment, with jewelery, bags, and shoes, too. Designer Rahul Mishra, who made his international debut at the paris haute couture week, continues to a permanent fixture there, has a studio in paris and now. York. Hollywood celebrities endors his couture at marquee events. Anita Dongre, Too, has held her own by sticking to sustainable fashion.
All three have used in a quiet revolution amng consumers by becoming transparent about the environment and social impact of their products. Be it Mukherjee’s sourcing from the remot crafttsperson, his endorsement of weaver clusters and commute fashion or mishra’s community of over 1,500 artisans and embroiders – for whir wire. Sustainable Livelihoods – Sustainability and Preservation of Heritage Crafts are the latest calling card.
It is here that luxury fashion houses of the west is trapped, finding it different to match the ethics of a Circular Economy with Scale. Indian couturists are playing with limited editions, high quality, intact craftsmanship, and heavily banking on trading. This boutique approach is precisely why they have nudged their way in. The question is the twain can meet to extract the best from each other.
rinku.ghosh@expressindia.com