
It was news that shocked the fashion world late on Wednesday, June 5. Artistic Director of Chanel Virginie Viard was stepping down from her position. “Chanel confirms the departure of Virginie Viard after a rich collaboration of five years as artistic director of fashion collections, during which she was able to renew the codes of the house while respecting the creative heritage of Chanel, and almost 30 years within the house. Chanel thanks Virginie Viard for her remarkable contribution to Chanel’s fashion, creativity, and vitality. A new chapter is opening for Chanel’s fashion division. We are confident in the teams’ ability to ensure the continuity of the collections in this period of transition,” the company said in a statement issued late on Wednesday night.
The woman who succeeded Karl Lagerfeld after his death in 2019, and who was his closest collaborator for almost 30 years, began her career as a film costume designer, before joining the embroidery division of the House of Chanel in 1987, when she was aged 25. She rose through the ranks to become creative studio director in 2000, working hand-in-hand with Lagerfeld, who was Chanel’s artistic director from 1983.
“I make the collections come to life with the ateliers and the Métiers d’Art houses, based on Karl’s sketches. I coordinate the teams, liaise with suppliers and choose fabrics. Then, of course, I do fittings with Karl. As soon as I receive his sketches, the process begins. I try to please him, but I like to surprise him too,” she confided to English daily The Telegraph in 2017.
Discreet but very committed to her work
She is so discreet by nature that her appointment to this supreme position in 2019 came as a surprise to many. Giving few interviews, she has since devoted herself to perpetuating her mentor’s legacy, while preserving the brand’s codes and injecting a dose of modernity. Her latest cruise collection, shown in Marseille on May 2, illustrated this, with its tweed suits in acidulous colors, black and white ensembles, jeweled belts and pearl necklaces to awaken the ensemble. Speaking with the media on this occasion, Viard seemed at ease, discreet but very committed to her work, it was business as usual.
While the world of luxury goods is experiencing a global slowdown in consumption, Chanel doesn’t seem to be suffering. The brand has posted a new record result at the end of its 2023 financial year. The Parisian label recorded sales of $19.7 billion (€18.2 billion) in 2023, up 14.6% on the previous year. Since Viard’s appointment, ready-to-wear sales have increased by a factor of 2.5. This growth makes the news of her departure all the more surprising.
Faced with the thorny question of succession, the rumor machine is already in motion. In 2010, Lagerfeld said in an interview for Numéro magazine that he saw Haider Ackermann as his ideal successor, but the name of Hedi Slimane, who is currently the artistic director at Celine, has been circulating for several years now. Pierpaolo Piccioli, ex-Valentino, and Sarah Burton, ex-Alexander McQueen, are not currently under contract. “A new creative organization for the house will be announced in due course. The autumn-winter 2024-2025 haute couture collection will be presented as planned on June 25 at the Opéra Garnier,” the brand said.