In a candid chat with indianexpress.com, chef Ananya Banerjee, executive pastry chef Bhaskar Chakraborty of JW Marriott Kolkata, and chef Kingshuk Kundu, Oh! Calcutta, uncover the delightful nuances of litchi’r payesh. This dessert, uniquely distinct yet wonderfully familiar, deserves a spotlight—not just for us Bengalis but for anyone with a penchant for a sweet surprise.

A modern fusion

Litchi’r payesh represents a contemporary spin on the timeless Indian dessert known as payesh in Bengali or payasam in South India. Its historical roots trace back to ancient India, where it was originally crafted as a sacred tribute to deities during religious rituals and festive occasions.

In Bengal, Payesh takes center stage during Janmashtami celebrationsmarking the birth of Lord Krishna, and is a beloved treat for birthdays, especially the cherished first birthday ritual.

A magnificent symphony of lush litchis and slowly reduced milk. (Photo: A Bong Kitchen)

To this, chef Bhaskar Chakraborty added, “The inclusion of litchis in this traditional dish showcases the local produce of Bengal, particularly during the summer months when litchis are in season. The infusion of litchi into payesh could well be attributed to the lush litchi orchards abundant in Bengal, notably in locales such as Murshidabad and Nadia.”

Adding these sweet, succulent fruits introduces a delightful twist to the classic milk-based dessert, lending it a distinctive flavor profile that mirrors the region’s rich agricultural element. In a Bengali household, rice pudding is the foremost dish. It is customary to have pudding at any auspicious event. However, you can add litchis if you want to bring a twist instead of the traditional monotonous rice pudding.

“The texture of litchi payesh is slightly different due to the presence of the fruit pieces. Classic payesh has a more uniform texture without any fruit chunks,” explains chef Ananya.

Crafting the dessert

She also explained how to make it when you are craving it. First, wash the rice for the pudding thoroughly. You can also soak it in a little water for some time. Peel and deseed the litchis, then chop them into small pieces and set them aside in a small bowl. Now, heat a little ghee in a pan. Add bay leaves and crushed small cardamoms.

After stirring slightly:

Add the soaked rice.
Once the rice is slightly fried, add milk.
Add the milk gradually, not all at once.
When the rice is cooked, add sugar and khoya.
After stirring for a couple of minutes, add the chopped litchis.

Litchi orchards in Bengal and Bihar made the fruit available to incorporate into the rice pudding.

Once the pudding thickens, sprinkle almonds and raisins on top and take it off the heat. Let it cool to room temperature, then refrigerate it. Serve the chilled litchi pudding. She also shared how litchis are widely grown in regions like Bihar and West Bengal, making them readily available during their season. The fruit’s natural sweetness and texture make it a suitable ingredient for desserts, inspiring its use in traditional recipes.

A tale of aristocracy and tradition

Here’s where it gets interesting—chef Kingshuk Kundu shared over the phone that this recipe and dish originate from Thakurbarir RannaRabindranath Tagore’s household recipe book, which has now made its way to our tables.

“Think of it this way: it was a status symbol for aristocratic Bengalis, such as zamindars and rajbaris, who had easy access to exotic ingredients like walnuts and fruits. In contrast, the middle and lower classes enjoyed rice pudding with simpler ingredients like cashews or sometimes nothing at all.”

Thakurbarir Ranna is a collection of household experimental recipes from Rabindranath Tagore’s home, one of which being Licthi’r payesh.

He elaborated on how Thakurbarir Ranna is a treasure trove of culinary experimentation, with litchi’r payesh being a shining example. Last May, their restaurant hosted a ‘Pochishe Baisakh’ feast inspired by the Tagore household. The menu was a hit, featuring beloved dishes like peyaj posto, lichur payesh, anchorer kofta kebab, murgir rosolla, and more, showcasing the Tagore kitchen’s proud legacy.

Exploring the essence

Now, if you’re asking what about the nutritional benefits? Chef Ananya has your answer. She shared, “These fruits are high in vitamin C, which supports immune function, skin health, and iron absorption. They also contain B vitamins, potassium, and antioxidants. Milk provides calcium, which is essential for bone health, along with vitamins D, B12, and riboflavin. Rice and sugar contribute carbohydrates, providing a quick source of energy.”

Litchi payesh is celebrated for its delicate, floral notes, creamy consistency, and somewhat intricate preparation process. Other fruit-based Bengali desserts like aam doi or kheer kamla bring their own distinct flavors and textures, some of which are quicker to prepare, offering a different sensory delight. One significant hurdle is the acidity of litchis, which can lead to milk curdling.

The recipes are often written by Purnima Tagore, youngest child of Hemendranath Tagore, and niece of Rabindranath Tagore.

“To overcome this, ensure the milk is fresh to minimize the risk of curdling. Add the litchis to the payesh only after it has been cooked and cooled slightly. While simmering the milk, stir continuously to prevent it from sticking to the pot and burning, which could cause curdling,” concludes Chef Ananya.

Served during Bengali festivals and special occasions such as marriage anniversaries, house parties, birthdays, and other festive gatherings that occur during the summer months, the dish holds significance in these celebrations as a refreshing and seasonal dessert that highlights the abundance of litchis during their peak harvest season.