Since the decree of September 13, 1993, issued by the government of Prime Minister Edouard Balladur, the composition of the “traditional French” baguette has been strictly regulated. Baked on the premises by the baker, it must be made exclusively from flour, water, salt, yeast and/or sourdough. This means it cannot have additives or preservatives that can legally be found in other bread, nor can the dough undergo any freezing treatment during its production. This is the bread with which we can judge the quality of a baker. However, in recent years, it has become increasingly difficult to find a good baguette tradition.
There are several reasons for this: More and more bakers are abandoning this premium product to concentrate on larger, more profitable loaves. The highly variable quality of some baguettes has also diverted customers to other bread. Be that as it may, here are five traditional baguettes in Paris and its region that passed the crash test with flying colors!
La Rue Palloy’s traditional baguette
After graduating with a law degree, Amaury Fieutelot earned a professional certificate in baking. In 2017, with his wife, he opened the bakery La Rue Palloy, in Clichy, northwest of Paris. When it comes to the raw materials for their various creations, the couple sources most of their ingredients from local suppliers, collecting raw milk and eggs directly from the farm. Not to be missed are the deliciously creamy flan pâtissier and the 1.6-kilo organic tourte with a caramelized crust and slightly acidic crumb.
Our opinion: This baguette has the surprising distinction of being made with flour produced and ground on site, using a stone millstone. What’s more, it benefits from a long sourdough fermentation process that facilitates digestion. The crumb is cream to brown in color, with a crisp crust, strong flavors and a subtle taste of wheat on the finish.
Price: €1.35
Boulangerie La Rue Palloy, 50 Rue Palloy, Clichy (Hauts-de-Seine).
Pascal & Anthony’s traditional baguette
In 2017, baker Pascal Hérault and pastry chef Anthony Raingeval opened a shop in Paris, in an area lacking quality bakeries. Alumni of the Gontran Cherrier artisan bakeries, they quickly found their clientele by offering a gourmet range rich in flavors.
Our opinion: This baguette is made using poolish, a pre-fermentation method that develops a more airy dough, with a soft crumb delicately honeycombed and a particularly crisp crust. It is a well-balanced option.
Price: €1.20
Pascal & Anthony, 32 Rue de Dantzig, Paris 15th.
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