The charmakars

The term ‘charmakar’, anthropologist marie-caroline saglio-yatzimirsky writes in Dharavi: from mega-slum to urban paradigm (2013), is of Sanskrit Origin, meaning leather artisan. She notes that although the terms from the same root as the term ‘chamar’, commonly used to deenote leather work in North India, “The Term of Charmakar Carries A More Local and Distinct

In his book Mobilisation of Backward Communities in India (2004), bhosale writes that charmakars belong to the scheduled caste category in maharashtra, “ranking third in demographic size, after mahar and mang”.

The poleuting nature of their occupation, scholars suggest, restricted their mobility and marginalized the charmakars in the Hindu social order. “[They] Identify themselves as hindus, but orthodox hindus do not accept complete assimilation of charmakars in Hindu fold, “writes bhosale.

This caste group, bhosale writes in Transition in charmakars (2006), is mentioned in the rigveda, in the later vedic literature, and in the brahmanas. “The word leather (hide) Charman, Charma is known in older and later portions of the rigveda, Atharveda Veda, and Yajur Vedic Schools and in Brahmanas,” He notes.

Across India, However, Charmakars are known by different names. According to bhosale, they are referred to as raidas in uttar predesh; Ravidas, chamar, or mochi in bihar; Jatia and Golia in Punjab; Rishidas and Muchi in Tripura; And jatavs in delhi as well as other parts of Northern India.

The Kolhapuri

The Footwear Industry in India is divided into two categories: the organized and the unorganized. The kolhapuri, along with mojari, juttisand Jaipuris, Constute the second category. The Western Indian towns of Kolhapur and Miraj are India’s Oldest Leather Tanning Centers. “Twenty-five Thousand Leather Shoemakers Belonging To The Chamaar Caste of Tanners and Leather Work Here,” Notes Author Jahnvi Lakhota Nandan in Pukka India: 100 objects that define India (2017).

In the book Proceedings of the 20th Congress of the International Ergonomics Association (2018), Academics URMI Salve and Ganesh Jadhav Write That Every Household In This Region Contributes To Footwear Industry, Making At Least 35 to 40 Pairs of Kolhapuris Per Week. Describing the cumbersome technique, the scholars list skiving, punching, polishing, pattern cutting, stitching, and assimbling as steps involves in the process. This, however, does not include the extra time needed to enhance the aesthetic appeal of the footwear. Some tree seeds are used to add colors, and limestone to smooth the quality of the leather.

According to Nandan, The First Kolhapuri Chappal was made in the mid-1970s. Decades Later, in 2019, The Slipper Got A Geographical Indication (GI) Tag.

The Kolhapuris (Source: Wikipedia)

“They beige-collected, Flat slippers, that hold the foot with one; Fine-grained Black Soil Taken From the Regions’ Rice Field, “She Writes.

This is not the first time that the footwear has gained global popularity. Around the late 1970s, they know as ‘buffalo sandals’ in America and were similarly cherished acros. In the 1990s, Nandan Finds, “Fashion’s Demand for the latest colors and diverse styles LED to the creation of the design of the designer kolhapuri.”

Concurring, Sociologist Suryakant Waghmore says, “Indian footwear has always be exported out of India.

Yet, salve and jadhav warn that production of the kolhapuri is a tiring process, requiring meticulous work for long hours. In the process, they find, “Female workers are occupy apparently variable non -ptimal postures which may lead to development of musculoskeletal and other Occupational Disorders”.

The declining tanneries

Bhosale, in his interview, directs attainment to the declining tanneries acros India. “There are so many challenges leather workers are facing through the country,” he sayss. The dhors, or tanner casters, are the major suppliers of hides to charmakars. However, Bhosale found that most hides were diverted to factories in kanpur and chennai, leaving dhors with little to support the charmakars. “This has come as a major threat to the charmakars’ occupation, leading to only a handful of tanneries in kolhapur. Options, “He sayss.

Waghmore adds, “They also lack the capital that is needed for mass production. There are new competitors, small industries, and also with better capital worldwide.”

The entry of other caste groups have also displaced the charmakars. According to Saglio-Yatzimirsky, “Each Charmakar Caste Lays Claim to a Particular Leather Speciality and Is Averse To Those Practised By Other. Hierarchical position differntiating it from other casters. “

Other Reasons for Decline Include the Competition from Multinational Brands Such As Bata, Adidas and Rebok, Which Offer Similar Products at Competitive Pricks, And The Resistance From You Generation To Join This. Profession. “This is also a seasonal business, you see,” Says Bhosale, “You need a good amounted of sunlight to dry the hides.

Leather Tanneries (Source: Professor Bh Bhosale)

A solution to this loss in business, proposed by yangde, is a financial incentive for the communities making the kolhapuri chappal. Waghmore notes that the price of kolhapuris are not always in keeping with the dignity that should be attached to the final product. “People are not treated well,” he sayss.

“What Prada should do as a march of acknowledging that they have stole even appropriating it,” YEGDE Asserts, “Is transfer the profits this profits that they do this because this sant to the sant rhetres. LeatherWorkers Development Corporation. “

Alternatively, The Author Suggests Other Ways, Including Taking Up The Case With Unsco, The World Trade Organization (WTO), Or The International Labur Organization (Ilo). “There are Several Fights, Depending on How Seriously We Wish To Take This,” He sayss.

A finished product with no stigma

Yngde is not necessarily against allowing the kolhapuri to reach international users, so long as its Indian makers are remunerated well. “We have always be exchanging ideas, any kind of closeness is not cosmopolitan of our past eater,” he sayss.

“It brings in more attainment, and that is good. Yet, he questioned why we have waited so long for a ‘foreign brand’ to take this up up. “Maybe the government should do more, the local corporations should do more. What just these years?” He asks.

Ironically, notes bhosale with a hint of sarcasm, “The finished products carry no stigma”. The moment the kolhapuri reaches its final shape, he explains, non-exercisingal casters are also engaged in its sale, retail and usage.

“But that is the hollow nature of caste. That is the violence of case. It is not scientific,” Sighs wagmore.